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The term “coffee shop” is not new to Israel. In the 40s and 50s, there were many, but rather than coffee, they sold soda water. The fledgling nation was dealing with poverty and food rationing, and coffee wasn’t available, but the social aspects of drinking coffee were beginning to take hold even then! Today, thousands of coffee shops, espresso bars, and outdoor cafes provide hot and cold delights that are savored while Israelis discuss politics and the economy, argue religion and social issues, share laughter and the latest news.
In a recently published coffee-table book about coffee, author Matam Shiram writes about the ritual of coffee preparation in the Israeli army: “Coffee in the reserves is our exclusive invention. It is an Israeli institution that is difficult to describe…You have to imagine the dunes and the beating sun (or conversely the pouring rain), the sweaty uniforms, the smell of oil on the tank…And it is especially necessary to imagine the smell of the coffee cooking in the finjan [small, long-handled pot]…Coffee in the reserves is the best way to unify a group. People who are different and even strangers make coffee (Probably arguing about how many times the coffee should come to a near boil before it is perfect), sip it and for a minute are closer to each other than brothers. Coffee in the army…provides warm and sweet solace.”
Originating in Ethiopia, coffee drinking spread throughout Africa and the Middle East. Among the Bedouin, coffee ritual is an integral part of the social life of each tribe. Called gawha, the process is governed by strict rules of etiquette and is one of the many ways through which the Bedouin display hospitality to friends and guests. It begins with the grinding of the beans with a large, often wooden mortar and pestle, sometimes as long as two or three feet. The coffee and other fragrant delights are placed in the bottom and ground by pounding. The rhythm of the pounding sends an invitation, tells a story, or even broadcasts the latest news. As the Bedouin gather to hover over a small but tasty steaming cup, tradition calls for laughter, singing, and the sharing of the latest tribal gossip—not much different than today’s corner coffee shop where a decent cup of similar Turkish coffee can be had.
Made with cardamom, it is one of my favorite treats here in Israel. The following is my own recipe but it is best to experiment until you achieve just the right balance of flavors.
Cheryl’s Special Blend
Combine thoroughly one pound medium or dark roast ground coffee with 5–6 tablespoons ground cardamom. Boil water and add one heaping tablespoon of coffee mixture for each cup. Continue at a light boil for a minute or two; stir in one teaspoon of sugar for each cup and cinnamon to taste. Reduce heat, simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, and serve in small cups. If you grind your own beans, the cardamom can be added during that process and the resulting blend stored in an air-tight container, ready to be enjoyed at breakfast time or savored with friends over pastries…and the latest tribal news!
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